We depart the campsite and commence the 12 miles to Tyndrum. Not too bad on the rain front this morning, more of a lingering mist, and some moody scenery as we follow the river along Glen Falloch. There is both a road and a railway line running through the glen but it is remarkably quiet. We encounter for the first time the phenomenon of a "sheep creep" as it is named on our Ordnance Survey map. This being a very low and narrow space through which to pass beneath the railway. Someone has helpfully placed a laminated sign warning that the roof actually gets lower as you go through. Neither of us are tall and it is still quite a stoop. Out the other side we cross the main road and begin to climb the hillside using the old military road which much of the West Highland Way follows. As we can gain height we pass through woodland before descending, crossing the road again and then following the river Fillan into Strathfillan. Around here we encounter a sign for the "Tyndrum massage" for which one must call or text Pat. An information board tells us that this part of Scotland receives an annual rainfall 4 times that of Edinburgh. Visitors to Edinburgh often complain Scotland receives a lot of rain but that's because they come in August (for the Fringe) which can be a pretty wet month. In general, the East of Scotland gets less rain... to get wet, go West! (From experience I recommend you don't mention this weather observation while standing in a lift in Glasgow - J.) We have a rest on a bench beside St Fillan's priory where there is a battered old sign telling of the exploits of St Fillan an Irish monk who brought Christianity to this area of Scotland. I also remember seeing his cave in Pittenweem when walking the Fife Coastal Path a few years ago. Jennie has begun to speed ahead, she's bored of my tales about monks, probably. Or maybe this is the point where she realises there are fish and chips to be had in Tyndrum and it isn't that far now.
Matthew
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First of all we need to get back across to the east side of Loch Lomond in order to resume our adventure from Inversnaid. A lengthy train ride from Arbroath to Arrochar-Tarbert plus a wait for the ferry means it takes the best part of a day to get here so we stay again at the Inversnaid Bunkhouse where we finished the first part of the West Highland Way in June. It is a pleasant evening so we have a wander around the RSPB nature reserve at Inversnaid; A convenient reminder that we are donating 50% of the funds raised to RSPB Scotland. The next day our walk begins properly. Albeit we are not technically on the West Highland Way because the Inversnaid Bunkhouse is slightly off route. We're full of porridge-energy so decide to check out the Great Trossachs Path route back down to the harbour instead of the less interesting walk along the road. And yes, we may have escaped it last night, but it has indeed started to rain. A temporary break in the deluge affords some lovely views before we reach the ferry port at Inversnaid. We are back on the West Highland Way with a view to the curiously named "Island I Vow". The going is fairly typical of this part of the route, ups and downs and lots of fast flowing streams to step over. I'm happy to see my good friend the dipper, in fact more than one. After a few hours we begin to sense the end of Loch Lomond approaching and it seems as if we are about to have a change in scenery. Around this point we encounter a froggy friend. Or is it toad? This debate may never end (Its a toad - J.) Jennie gets a good snap of him anyway. Not long after this I remark upon a strange smell, and try to place what it is. Stinky cheese? I can make neither head nor tail of it until I catch a glimpse and suddenly the smell makes sense. Unexpected. Look, Jennie, between the trees... It is of course the elusive Highland Goat, or rather several of them picking their way through the vegetation on the thickly forested slopes. Our guide book refers to an interesting legend which states that before being crowned King, Robert the Bruce was hunted by soldiers and hid in a cave by Loch Lomond. A group of goats arrived and started browsing around the entrance to the cave. When the soldiers arrived the fugitive King-to-be heard them discussing whether they should search the cave, but they decided that if anyone was inside the goats would not be there, so they left. The relieved and appreciative Bruce, upon gaining power, forbade anyone from harming the goats. We feel very proud to have seen them. By now we could really do with a lunch stop out of the rain, but hold on, what's this. A lovely cottage, perhaps with a roaring fire and cups of tea. Jennie sincerely hopes so and leads the way. Hmm, this'll be the Doune Bothy. Jennie decides this is not a suitable place for lunch and borrows a plastic chair to sit outside, so I join her there. It has temporarily stopped raining long enough for us to eat our sandwiches at least. Just. Ok, might as well get going again! The end of the loch is now clearly visible as we reach the final stretch of the day's journey. It is strange to no longer be looking at Loch Lomond! I should compose a song, perhaps "Farewell Bonny Loch Lomond Side." But I'm wet and I just want to get inside. We finish the day at Beinglas Campsite which thankfully has cabins so we don't have to stay in a tent. Although we do get temporarily locked in as the door jams! We are are also lucky as apparently a couple of weeks earlier they had a plague of midges but they have all since gone! Very pleased about this. It's also raining like mad and you would be seriously worried about your tent washing away (a few weeks later this site suffers some serious flooding). We decide to eat in the campsite bar which is decent although we were a bit curious as to the nearby Drovers Inn, dating from way back in 1705, a time when there were indeed such people as drovers requiring such an inn. Trip Advisor reviews weren't great so we skipped it in the end. Matthew |
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